On Sunday morning, Easter Sunday morning, we left Cordoba and were off to Sevilla on the high speed AVE train. On the train I actually saw a friend from my study abroad program who was traveling from Madrid to Sevilla with her mom and brother. It is such a small world! When we arrived in Sevilla we were able to use our international calling card to call Dad and wish him a "Happy Easter" and let him know we were doing well!
The streets in Sevilla are just as small and windy with cobblestone as in Cordoba. Good thing we took a taxi or else we would have never found our hotel, Pension Cordoba. A pension is more of a small, family run hotel and the family running ours was very nice and helpful! After checking in we went and ate lunch where we got our first taste of refreshing sangria. We found Plaza Nueva and then wandered down to the Plaza de Toros, bullring. It was too early for anything to be happening there because the opening fight of the season didn't start until 6:30pm. Of course the fight was sold out.
Where we ate lunch, Casa del Tomate
Plaza de Toros
The ring is located right along the Guadalquivir River which has a lovely pedestrian walkway which we followed to this gorgeous park! It was exquisite with lush palm trees, mosaic fountains and benches, and little winding paths everywhere. Mom and I enjoyed relaxing in the shade with some ice cream.
Guadalquivir River
The Park
Another part of the park
Starting at Plaza de Triunfo, we followed yet another Rick Steves self-guided walking tour through the Barrio Santa Cruz, the once thriving Jewish Quarter. The tour led us through "kissing lanes," lanes so close together they could almost be kissing, and beautiful plazas that were full of blooming orange trees that smelled heavenly. Halfway through our tour we stopped for a half a liter of sangria for only 4 euros for a refreshing break!
For dinner that night we went to a recommended place right around the corner from our pension. It was basically just a tapas place so we ordered a random sample and we also tried tinto de verano (summer wine), it is basically red wine mixed with a sprite, lemony mixture, almost like a wine spritzer! I preferred it to sangria and it is now my favorite drink! However, the best part of dinner was as we were waiting for our food a small procession cam through with candles lit and singing hymns. They also had a smaller imagen of the Virgin Mary with them that was being carried on the peoples' shoulders of all ages. The restaurant turned their outside lights off as they passed. It was really beautiful and unexpected, but such a cultural experience that I was so happy to have seen! Oh and to note, Mom and I actually did a Spanish style dinner this night by not starting til 8:30pm and then sitting, enjoying the atmosphere until 10:30pm! I finally got Mom to be on the Spanish schedule!
DAY 11 of Spring Break; DAY 6 on Southern Spain Tour with Mom:
We started off the day with a 2 hour walking tour with Concepcion Delgado, recommended by Rick Steves, which started in Plaza Nueva and ended in Plaza de Triunfo. It was a little different walking tour, more learning about things around us and culture than walking which was great, very informative and interesting! She also speaks great English and in our tour we had representatives of every English speaking country, USA, Britain, Australia, and even ALASKA!
During our tour we learned about the tiles on the walls of houses, Barroque architecture in Andalusian churches, the lady of faith on top of the bell tower is actually a weather vain, and much more! One thing that was really cool was that the city hall in Sevilla was first constructed in the 15th century and then added onto. Concepcion pointed out that it is a good representation of the history of Sevilla, because of the lack of the continuation of carvings shows the decline in wealth. As you look at the front of the building from right to left you can see how it starts with intricate carvings until it turns into a blank slate. It is actually really cool! The tour was great and I would recommend it to anyone! And at the end Concepcion told me to have a great time in Bilbao and if I ever needed anything anywhere in Spain, that I have her number, so kind!
City Hall, notice the carvings.
After our tour we had to hit up the main attraction, the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Sede, the third largest cathedral in Europe and it was remarkable. The high altar is completely covered in gold leaf, 65 feet tall and depicts 44 scenes from the Bible. Then there is the Tomb of Columbus which was Mom and I's favorite part! It is a statue of four kings who carry the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Supposedly, there was a DNA test done 500 years after he died to prove that the remains in Sevilla are actually his. But who truly knows? Then in the treasury there is a "room of ornaments" which holds crowns and holy body parts. The Corona de la Virgen de los Reyes sparkles with 11,000 precious stones and the world's largest pearl!
The High Altar
Christopher Columbus' Tomb
Corona de la Virgen de los Reyes.
The world's largest pearl is the torso of the angel.
When exploring the inside of the cathedral was completed, we headed to the Giralda Tower to make our 330 feet up. Fortunately for us it used to be a minaret for the mosque that once stood hear, so there are not stairs only ramps well 35 ramps that spiral all the way up. Of course it was totally worth it because the view of the whole city was spectacular and it was a perfect day!
Giralda Bell Tower
View from the top of the tower
For a more relaxing stroll, Mom and I wandered through the Murillo Gardens after a nice siesta. It was not as impressive as the park from the previous day but still nice. And we saw the cutest girl getting her first communion photos taken.
Murillo Gardens
That night was our Flamenco dancing night! We went to the Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus, "House of the Memory of Al-Andalus," which is more intimate setting with a classic flamenco concert and two solo acts, a man and a woman. It is known for tradition and not being a tourist trap. Mom and I got front row and before the show started we met a couple from Louisiana who said they were here the night before. They enjoyed it so much that right after the show they bought tickets to come again. Mom and I felt reassured that it was going to be a good show. Oh and it was! There was so much energy and passion on the stage, it gave me chills. Started off with a singer and guitar player singing traditional Flamenco music. I was mesmerized by how fast the guitar player's fingers moved! Then they moved off stage and the woman flamenco dancer walks on stage, the singer's eyes just lit up watching her feet move. I loved how the singer's clapping, the guitar playing and the flamenco's feet would play off each other, sometimes she would set the rhythm or vice versa. Either way it was remarkable. The guy flamenco dancer came out with such strength and sharp, striking features. Both dancers just exuded so much talent and passion. It was over way too quickly! I could have watched it all night! Unfortunately you cannot take pictures while they are dancing, well only during the last 5 minutes of the show when they come out to take a bow.
the intimate setting
Flamenco Dancers
DAY 12 of Spring Break; DAY 7 on Southern Spain Tour with Mom:
Started off our final day in Sevilla by going to church El Salvador which we had free admission to from going to the Cathedral. El Salvador is the second largest church in Sevilla and had 10 floats for Semana Santa. Some of the altarpieces showed true examples of baroque architecture. The whole place was beautiful and peaceful with nice choir music playing throughout in the background.
Right around that area is all the local shopping so we poked our heads into a few Flamenco dress shops which are flourishing right now because Feria de Abril is in a few weeks. The dresses were suprisingly heavier than I thought, but oh my goodness, there are so many different styles and patterns to choose from! It is almost like going to pick out a prom dress but for all ages.
We got lunch at this place where their special of the day was 5 tapas sorpresas (surprises), so we risked it to see what came out. Mom & I were very happy with our 5, fried cod, zucchini soup, salmoreja, meat like pork with french fries, and then poleos con miel de canta. My favorite was the creamy zucchini soup!
For the afternoon we toured the Alcazar which is smaller than I imagined. It is originally a 10th century palace built for the governors of the local Moorish state and still functions as a royal palace. The gardens were the thing to see which appeared larger than the palace itself. However, it was neat to into the room where Christopher Columbus and all his sailors went to pray before sailing off. This room known as the Admiral's Lounge also holds the painting of Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires Chapel, St. Mary of the Fair Winds. It is the earliest known portrait of Columbus and the first time "Indians" or Native Americans were painted in Europe.
One of the wings resembled the Alhambra, however it is different because this was made by Moors working for the Christians so you could find creatures like lions and peacocks integrated into the walls. We wandered around the gardens after touring the wings for a good while where we saw real peacocks, cool fountains, an array of flowers and enjoyed the lovely scent of orange blossoms.
For dinner we sat outside at this place on Santa Maria Plaza. Enjoyed another plate of Tapas Variadas, a plate of various tapas we had no control over what we were getting, and tinto de verano. There was a plasma screen TV on the outside wall and at 8:45pm a soccer game, Barcelona vs Arsenal, come one. We stayed and watched until halftime where it was 2-1, Barcelona. It was a fun atmosphere because a table of about seven guys was there drinking and getting really into the game!
That was our last night in Sevilla, we left in the morning for Toledo.
Started off our final day in Sevilla by going to church El Salvador which we had free admission to from going to the Cathedral. El Salvador is the second largest church in Sevilla and had 10 floats for Semana Santa. Some of the altarpieces showed true examples of baroque architecture. The whole place was beautiful and peaceful with nice choir music playing throughout in the background.
Iglesia El Salvador
The Altar, example of Baroque architecture.
Right around that area is all the local shopping so we poked our heads into a few Flamenco dress shops which are flourishing right now because Feria de Abril is in a few weeks. The dresses were suprisingly heavier than I thought, but oh my goodness, there are so many different styles and patterns to choose from! It is almost like going to pick out a prom dress but for all ages.
We got lunch at this place where their special of the day was 5 tapas sorpresas (surprises), so we risked it to see what came out. Mom & I were very happy with our 5, fried cod, zucchini soup, salmoreja, meat like pork with french fries, and then poleos con miel de canta. My favorite was the creamy zucchini soup!
For the afternoon we toured the Alcazar which is smaller than I imagined. It is originally a 10th century palace built for the governors of the local Moorish state and still functions as a royal palace. The gardens were the thing to see which appeared larger than the palace itself. However, it was neat to into the room where Christopher Columbus and all his sailors went to pray before sailing off. This room known as the Admiral's Lounge also holds the painting of Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires Chapel, St. Mary of the Fair Winds. It is the earliest known portrait of Columbus and the first time "Indians" or Native Americans were painted in Europe.
Entrance to Alcazar
painting of Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires Chapel
Inside the Alcazar
Me in the gardens of the Alcazar
Alcazar Gardens
the extensive gardens
That was our last night in Sevilla, we left in the morning for Toledo.
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